Jilly Vervet's Adventure in Anguilla - Parts I & II

Edited and pictures added February 1, 2011.
It has been quite some time since I have posted anything on this blog, largely because I haven't decided whether to keep it going, shut it down or let it morph into something else. Life changes have taken over, and although writing here proved good therapy while I was preparing for the career shifting, now that the changes are in full swing, much of my computer time is spent building my business and trying to figure out how to market counselling and coaching services without loosing track of my personal philosphies and integrity. Ah, but this is a topic for another time. Today however, I'm here to talk about my recent trip to Anguilla! So without further dawdling, here it is (at least in part, and for now, minus photos, for the most part, which is also a subject for another time ...) Update - February 1, 2011: I have finally uploaded some photos ...

PART I - GETTING THERE:
For Canadians, especially those of us living in Southern Ontario, WestJet flies direct into the Caribbean. So, it is an excellent alternative to those flights that require transferring flight through American hub airports like Miami or Atlanta or, yikes(!) Newark. WestJet took me direct from Toronto to St. Martin/Sint Maarten on Sunday, April 18th. Smooth flight, leaving Toronto (YYZ in "airportese") at the very civilized hour of 10:30am. This is SUCH a luxury, as most flights I have taken into the Caribbean in the past seem to leave around 6:00am; which means getting to the airport between 3:00am and 4:00am. .
I was at a big wedding the day before, which doubled as a family reunion, and I was thrilled that I didn’t have to worry about missing the last part of the celebration to be home early to rest up before my flight … I got to eat, drink a little (maybe a titch more than a little, but hey who's measuring), I danced; and when the party ended, I was still able to get a few hours of shut-eye before heading off to the airport Another bonus - luckily for me, the YYZ is close to home. WestJet has three flights a week into St. Martin/Sint Maarten (SXM in airport code) during busy season, and once a week after the end of April. After a nice in-air snooze, and lots of orange juice and coffee, we landed in SXM at 2:45pm. And, oh what a landing.

SXM has to have one of the more exciting landing strips in the world. Planes fly right over one of the busiest beaches on the island, to the runway across the street from said beach, where vacationers, rather than recoiling from the noise and fumes, line the shoreline and brave loosing their belongings in the jet blast, to watch the planes come in for a landing, just feet over their heads.
I encountered no issues retrieving my suitcase, which was carry-on size, but which sadly was about 3 pounds overweight, which meant I couldn't carry it aboard. So much for my plan … and my self-delusion. I can no longer fool myself into believing my bathroom scale is accurate! In retrospect, had I known I would have to check my bag, I could have packed so much more stuff, like my cute shoes for those times when flip-flops just won’t do!
I remembered the advice on the Anguilla travel forum, the latest on-line travel forum, besides Trip Advisor, and that other forum - the one for that other island y'all have heard about ad-nauseum.

Since I checked this Anguilla forum regularly, I was armed with current information, including the recent introduction of a new procedure at this airport - the new immigration booth specifically for passengers “in transit.” So I headed straight toward the wall on my left, as instructed on the forum … and the booth was closed! Dang!! And, and the other line-ups were already filling up quickly, so I stopped an airport employee who was walking by, and politely asked what gives with the un-staffed booth. She said the booth should have been open, so she got on her walkie-talkie and in no time at all an immigration officer opened up the booth, and I sped through. Wooo hooo … I was liking this so far!!

A brief observation about the airport … I was pleasantly surprised.
I haven’t been to St. Maarten in about 20 years, and since I have read on-line, numerous complaints over the last few months, I wasn’t sure what to expect - so I was prepared for the worst. In fact, I had a positive experience both arriving and leaving SXM. This is a pretty efficient, large(ish) airport, nicely air-conditioned and with enough decent places to get food and refreshments, at least compared to the little airport I remember (and compared to airports on neighbouring islands like Antigua and St. Kitts, to name but two.) So, I guess the complainers must be spoiled rich folks who travel on private planes and have handlers and private security whiz them through airport. Seriously, I don't get what all the complaints are about ... ah well, maybe I just got lucky and we landed at a good time on a good day ... so I said a quick prayer in gratitude.

I was booked on a 4:00pm, "VIP" shuttle service to get over to Anguilla, about a 30 minute ride from SXM across the channel that separates these two islands. I could have taken the public ferry from the Marigot harbour on the French side of the island, but that would have involved taking a cab and dealing with my own luggage ... and with the Fibromyalgia acting up like crazy this damp, gloomy winter, I opted for one of several semi-private services that leave from the harbour closer to the airport - GB Express. !
In total it only cost me $20 more for the round trip ... money well spent for a total reduction in "hassle-stress." When I went outside, a young lady(the "greeter" whose name I have now forgotten – memory is not what it was in my younger days …) was already there rounding up the GB passengers, in a friendly and efficient manner. Now this is where it gets funny. She was looking for 7 Canadians who were on my flight, but they were nowhere to be found. It appears they were held up retrieving baggage, and then in the long line-ups, as they were not aware of the “transfer” line. It turns out these seven Canadians were travel and life-style writers who work for various publications and media outlets. I thought it was great that I knew some “secrets” about getting to my destination hassle-free that they didn’t! When they were finally rounded up and we all introduced ourselves, I felt just a tiny bit smug, as they had seen me on the plane and couldn’t figure out how I got out so fast! Obviously these writers were not doing their travel research on the Anguilla Forum!

Another little mystery was solved when I was at the dock waiting to board GB Express. While in conversation with the writers, a couple of them told me they thought I was with their group. You see, when we were exiting the plane earlier that day, one of the flight attendants patted me on the shoulder, as she said her much practiced "goodbyes" to the de-planing passengers, and she then said to me, smiling warmly, "enjoy your time working in Anguilla."
I thought it was a strange thing to say, as we had not spoken on the plane, and so I chalked it up to a case of mistaken identity ... maybe she thought I was an ex-pat or something ... Later, in conversation with the writers, it dawned on me that she thought I was a writer ... teehee!! So, I asked the professional writers if being a closet writer who posts lengthy trip reports counts? They said "no, but good try, Jilly!"

We still managed to leave SXM on time, and I was grateful for the fact that GB handle the luggage, and exit details -- passports were rounded up when we reached the dock (a five-minute ride from the airport,) and handed back when we boarded the boat. Everything was easy-peasy. Well, easy-peasy, until I realized that the GB Express craft was a 16-pax speed-boat … pretty nice actually, but I am a bit afraid of “smaller” boats … OK, I’m afraid of fast boats too!
Catamarans are more my style! For some reason, I ended up sitting right in the back right-hand corner, where the view was magnificent as we traversed the two bays, in the “no-wake” zone, but which became terrifying for me when we went out onto the open water. It became evident quite quickly that the conditions were very, very choppy that day. As the nose of the boat reached upward toward the clouds, the back seemed inches from the choppy water. I had nothing to hold onto back there, as the waves and spray rose up beside and behind me to what looked like heights of 30 feet or more! OK, I know I am exaggerating, but I can’t swim and I was too embarrassed to ask for a life jacket! LOL. So, I held onto my seat-cushion with all my might, and I am sure that my face was as white as my knuckles, because a few fellow passengers asked me if I was OK and even offered to change seats with me … but I was frozen in place with my smile also frozen firmly in place. In truth I stubbornly refused to show how scared I was for fear of embarrassing myself in front of the writers. I didn’t relish the thought of seeing myself described as “that crazy, scaredy-cat lady” on the boat in a future travel story in the Toronto Star or in a Toronto Life magazine article!
So I bravely stayed put until we reached Blowing Point, where I immediately jumped off the boat … and then it hit me … the Anguilla vibe … laid back, slow and deliciously “old-school” Caribbean. The difference in atmosphere and pace between SXM and AXA can be felt the second you reach the harbour. And the view back toward St. Martin just breathtaking and made all the more lovely across the water, too far to see the traffic jams and over-crowding, just green mountains jutting out of the sea, and closer to me, a few sailing vessels and a ferry or two bobbing on the waves … picture-perfect …
and I felt my muscles, cramped from the flight and nerves rattled by the exhilarating channel crossing, slowly relax … and I couldn’t stop grinning, because I was in Anguilla at last!

Then I had another moment of panic … I ended up being the last of the 16 GB pax to go through the customs and immigration booth. I think the writers had a “handler” from Viceroy meeting them as they disappeared in short order. The rest of the pax were returning residents and so they beat me to the booth too. Anyway, my shoulder-bag that contained my lap-top was no-where to be found. Hmmm, the crew from the boat had taken it through with the luggage, but it was not with my suitcase in the little alcove with the other passengers’ luggage. I almost cried at this point, and several Anguillan travelers offered to assist me, but then I noticed someone come back through the entrance with the bag and they placed in on the bench … at which point I heaved a huge sigh of relief. The immigration officer just smiled at me and said, “see, you are in Anguilla now … nobody steals tourist belongings here.” Yes, I was definitely in Anguilla! It seems the crew had taken my bag along with the writers’ things as they boarded their van for the Viceroy, but quickly realized their error and came right back to make things good! Oh yes, I was already in love with this little island and it’s citizens!

STAYING THERE
I have always wanted to spend some time in Anguilla, but the last time I looked into it, was unable to find anything to fit my budget. I guess I didn’t look hard enough! In any event, I actually had choices, this time! And I must have changed my mind a dozen times before I finally settled on La Vue. .It was absolutely the right choice for me! Now it might not be for everyone, especially those of you who must have a beach right outside the door, but I found it to be ideally situated as a home-base for exploring the island – quite central to both east and west end (though west end is much easier to negotiate for a newbie like me, but that is a whole other story!)

La Vue does have a wonderful view from the front lobby area, the side garden and especially from the balconies of the upstairs units, overlooking Road Bay and Sandy Ground. Perfect for sunrise or sunset viewing from their balconies, or just gazing at the bay any time of day with the boats bobbing on the water, with the sun reflecting back off the sea like tiny shards of mirror and miniature prisms.
Alas, I had a studio unit, on the main floor at the back of the building. So, no view for me! But I am not complaining, because it fit my budget and the room has side door walk-out, so you can wander over to the lovely garden that overlooks the same incredible view.
And the owners are building a bar and outdoor kitchen, which will be ready next year, just steps away from this room … stumbling distance to my bed! The room itself is like an oversized bachelor apartment. Bathroom as soon as you walk in on the left. Directly in front, the “bedroom” area with a comfy king-size platform bed, two night stands, a large mirrored armoir-style closet ... and across from the foot of the bed, a spacious dresser with the t.v. directly on top.

OK, this is not Viceroy quality furnishings, but all very well built. On the other size of the room, an nice open kitchen with full-size fridge, island counter dividing it from the sitting area, a few comfy stools around the counter. The sitting area has two nice rattan tub chairs with cushions and a small coffee table. And there is space left over in case they need to put an extra bed (single) in the room. Bottom line, the room is equipped with everything a traveler might need, from hair dryer, to iron and board to kitchen utensils. Oh, and upon checking in, I discovered a full tin of coffee in the room and a stack of filters. They also stock a large bottle of water in the fridge for arriving guests. Excellent touches for this price range. Most importantly for me, as I actually did have to do some work while I was away (how did that flight attendant know?!) -- there was free in-room wifi, and it was very reliable. As for the continental breakfast which was served in the lobby, it seems to strike the right balance – enough selection of juices, sliced fruits, muffins, banana bread and croissants, without killing your appetite if you decide to have breakfast out.

I can’t say enough about the owners and the staff. Kirk and Joylynn made me feel so welcome – on my first night, they even drove me and picked me up from Tasty’s where I had my first Anguilla dinner! These folks really know how to take care of their guests. The room was always impeccably clean and the housekeeper (Winielle sp?) would go out of her way to provide extra beach towels or anything else for the room. Sharon at the desk offered to make reservations, car rental arrangements, phone calls, etc. in the event that I needed such assistance. They all seemed to strike the right balance between friendliness and helpfulness, without being too intrusive. Which proves that guest service is not about “you get what you pay for” but about hosts who have a passion for the work and a commitment to doing right by their vision.
Kirk has stated emphatically that he is committed to keeping prices affordable and service and amenities at a level that he has come to expect when he travels.

I would definitely stay here again! I was very happy here and really missed this room, especially the kitchen, free wifi and king-size bed, during the second portion of my vacation which was spent on St. Kitts I also miss my morning beach walks along Road Bay/Sandy Ground, when I had the beach to myself, and could admire the boats and the spectacular colours of the water without feeling that I was missing something by not being on Meads Bay or Shoal Bay or anywhere else …

In concluding this portion of my Anguilla reflection, I think for a longer stay, I would want a room with a view … or perhaps I might split my stay between a property on a beach for a week and the same room at La Vue for a second week … decisions, decisions …
February 1, 2011. Disclaimer/appology: Dear readers, please note that the current photos, except for the one of the conch shell are not mine. I have downloaded them from various places on the internet. If one of them is yours, please accept my sincerest appologies for borrowing it ... and my sincerest compliments for the lovely images that captured my imagination enough to be selected to illustrate my words. Also please accept my heartfelt thanks for not copyrighting your images, or I would have been out of luck, because while in Anguilla, my camera was drowned by a rogue wave, while walking the beach on day 2 of my trip. It was beyond resuscitation, so I came home with precious few images as a reminder or proof that I had even ventured out of my own country! xxoo

Comments

I know you started off with the fact that you hadn't written on your blog in a while and you weren't sure if you were going to keep writing on it. But I think you should, someone great once told me that a blog is a place were you can freely express your self, a place where you can let it all out and not be scare of people judgments. And your blog is pretty amazing it tell so great stories on it. The way you talked about Anguilla makes me want to go there right now. It sound like a magical place.
Anonymous said…
I agree!! Great post, would hate not to read more!
Celeste
Anonymous said…
Me too! I really enjoy reading about your trips, don't shut down :(

Popular posts from this blog

Travel Tales Part I - Footwear is Always on My Mind

This is so Me!

Update from "Guarda La Yarda" - Nonna C's Canning Factory